Devilled Kidneys on Toast

Introduction & method

Devilled kidneys were a staple of the Victorian English upper-class breakfast buffet. These days, we would probably view them as too heavy for breakfast - but you could probably get away with sneaking some into a Full English. The 'devil' in the name comes from the heat of the sauce. To be honest, it's not usually fiery like some curries can be - we're talking cayenne pepper, English mustard and Worcestershire sauce, so it's gently warming rather than lip-numbingly potent.

Prep the Kidneys

Some people like to soak kidneys in milk for about 30 minutes before cooking. I don't think that's necessary, especially for lamb's kidneys - a simple rinse under cold water will do. Pat the kidneys dry and then lay them on their backs with the exposed white stem of the core facing you. Cut them in half lengthways, open them out and snip out the white fat/gristle with kitchen scissors or a paring knife. Cut the kidneys into small chunks.

Cook the Kidneys

Melt a generous knob of butter in a frying pan on medium heat. When it's bubbling, add the kidneys and stir to get them browned all over. When the kidneys start releasing moisture, add the cayenne pepper, mustard and Worcestershire sauce. The kidneys will only need about 5 minutes of cooking - a residual trace of pink is good. Remove the kidneys from the pan. Turn up the heat and reduce the sauce until it's thick - something you can spread rather than pour. Remove from heat, add the double cream and season with salt and pepper.

Serve

You've been toasting your bread while cooking the kidneys, haven't you? Whether you butter your toast or not is entirely up to you. Place a couple slices of toast on a plate and spoon over the kidneys and sauce. Generously sprinkle with freshly chopped parsley.